Irish Passage Tombs

After saying goodbye to my new found couch surfing friend Michele, I drive out to the area just north of Dublin near Slane to check out Newgrange, an Irish passage tomb that dates back to 3000 BC and the most famous Irish prehistoric site on the island. A passage tomb is a primitive burial site that typically dates back to Neolithic times. Comprised of elaborate corbelled roofs (meaning the roof consists of layered rocks stacked in a cone shape, the weight of the rocks keep the structure in place, no cement is used), there may be just a single passage or sub-passages that branch off from a main passage. Earth is heaped atop all of this construction, giving way to an external view of a grassy dome with carefully concealed entrances.

I arrive at the Newgrange Visitor Center with limited time for touring. I have to be back in Dublin by 3pm to give a ride to Jodie (the gal who rented me my apartment) to the airport. She's going back home to London, she just graduated from college and is now looking for a job. Unfortunately, I don't have time to go to the Newgrange burial site. On a brighter note, however, there's a second option, to visit Knowth. Knowth is also a passage tomb, less popular because access is harder for the handicapped and elderly visitors. I pay my 5 Euros and board the tour bus. Jiffy quick we arrive at the site and the guided tour commences.





Situated in the Brú na Bóinne complex, Knowth is the largest of all passage tombs. It is here I encounter one massive mound accompanied by 17 smaller satellite tombs. The largest tomb, called Site 1, contains two passages running along an east/west line. 127 large Kerbstones encircle Site 1, many have megalithic art chiseled onto them, their true meaning is hidden in their design. In all of Western Europe, Knowth contains 1/3 of all known examples of megalithic art. Scientists have discovered even more artwork on the opposite (hidden) side of the kerbstones, yet another mystery. Ha, maybe the artist wasn't very good at their craft and had to perform a number of "do-overs"? Sorta like when you stain your couch cushion and flip it over so no one can see your mistake?!? Regardless of potential artistic goof-ups, this is indeed a special place.
Over the course of history many groups have used this place, spanning from the Neolithic (3000 - 2000 BC), Iron Age (early centuries AD), Early Christian (8th-12th centuries AD), and Norman (12th-14th centuries AD) Times. A grooved ware timber circle located near the eastern entrance of Site 1 suggests a ritual and/or sacred area as evidenced by a number of votive offerings scattered around the immediate area.
Falling into disrepair around 2000BC, Knowth went unused for nearly 2000 years. After which a brief flurry of activity occurred with a number of Celtic burials, 35 cist graves were placed here, most of the dead were women. The most interesting grave contained the decapitated bodies of two men, along with them was buried a gaming set, suggesting they were punished for a grave gambling offense.
During the late Iron Age and early Christian period, Knowth's Site 1 became a hill fort, fortified with encircling ditches. Two ditches were dug, one just behind the kerbstones, and another at the top. Full scale excavations of Knowth didn't happen until 1962. Prior to this, very little was known about Knowth. The eastern and western entrances to Site 1 were not discovered until 1967/68. Amazingly, the inner chambers are bone-dry, attesting to the effectiveness of the corbelled roof construction technique. That's no small feat, considering it rains so much here in Ireland.